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Head for the hills with a journey to Haputale

  

A journey to the hill country in order to escape Colombo's coastal heat has been a ritual ever since the first British colonialists' desire to enjoy a climate closer to that of their  native land led them to establish various  'hill stations' over a century and a half ago. 

However while Nuwareliya and Bandarwela became established mountain resorts   Haputale languished as little more than a way station; a town with a view where travellers would stop briefly to take in the scenery before heading on to their final destinations.

However with recent improvements to the Colombo-Badulla road cutting the journey time from Colombo to Haputale to just three hours and a host of new bungalows, hotels, and guest houses, the town is beginning to emerge as a destination in itself, an undeveloped unspoiled  alternative  to more established hill stations.  . 

Haputale's principle advantage as a destination is that it remains pleasantly un-commercial and underdeveloped. 

The town retains the feel of a mountain village and hasn't grown into a sprawling commercial or tourist centre like Nuwaraeliya or Bandarawela.

Loading and unloading old Tata trucks with sacks of tea and vegetables appears to be the main commercial activity and the town itself is little more than a handful of ramshackle  shops and eating houses  spanning the railway tracks and the highway.

Outside the town rutted tracks lead to wonderfully isolated, plantation bungalows that  offer views of nothing but rolling hills and carpets of tea.   

 The famous view - which encompasses the Udawalawe reservoir, the southern plains and even,  on exceptionally clear days, the ocean,  remains the town's principle  attraction    and is truly exceptional,  rivalled in terms of shear breath-taking-ness only by the gap at Ella.  The view is even more exceptional in the morning  as mist pours into the valley at night and at dawn does a wonderful impersonation of snow as it sits heavily on hill tops and mountain ridges. 

For lovers of panoramas near by Lipton's seat and mini worlds end offer still more spectacular views and for those seeking more excursions an amazing five waterfalls including the Diyaluma and Bambarakanda falls  are accessible from Haputale town.  Other tourist favourites including  - the Adisham monastery, and the Dambatanne tea factory are only a few minutes drive away.

The town's  central location within the hill country - with Nuwaraeliya, Badulla, and Bandarawella all at close proximity is an added bonus.  Given the  improvements to the A-4 road Haputale is quite possibly the most accessible of the hill stations. Wth a range of excellent  accommodation it seems more than likely the town will soon rival more famous hill resorts as a holiday destination  for those tired of  Colombo's relentless heat.

  Sherwood bungalow

Is everything you expect of an old planter's  residence.  A near perfect imitation of a British cottage with  cosy living rooms, large airy bedrooms, fire places and well tended gardens. Coat racks, overstuffed settees and copies of ancient fishing and pipe smoking periodicals all conjure the illusion of a vanished era.  But while the world of pipe smoking planters may have vanished the view from the cottage remains as spectacular as ever.  The bungalow’s four bedrooms are all perfectly situated to take advantage of Haputle's awesome panorama and, unusually,  what few changes there have been within the cottage  have been for the better.

 Modern bathrooms mean you can enjoy the century old cottage with the benefits of 21st century sanitation and  satellite TV and surround sound make short work of long lonely mountain evenings. 

  These  modern touches are unobtrusive however and without too much effort on the part of your imagination you can transport yourself to the days of the raj - the tea trolley is rolled out sharp at four o clock, and several courses, together with  the  correct accompanying cutlery are served at dinner.

 The piles of old magazines and assorted  ornaments complete the illusion of your own home in the hills and its this pleasant homeliness that defines a stay  at Sherwood bungalow.

 Everything is as it should be. The tea is exceptional, the beds soft and comfortable and steaming hot water gushes from the taps.. 

 Simply furnished and with just four bedrooms, Sherwood is much more a simple cottage than the imitation manor houses built by some more pretentious planters and while it may not offer the height of luxury every thing is so  well executed, time passes  so easily that you will hardly want to leave. 

15000 Rupees per night for the bungalow  may seem expensive but the house can easily accommodate 8 or even 10 people which makes for a very reasonable price person.

 Olympus Plaza Hotel

Is as far from a colonial bungalow as possible.  A sparkling modern construction, the Olympus Plaza is Haputale's first large hotel with 30 modern rooms spread over 5 stories.  Eccentrically decorated and featuring in true Olympian style, a classically named bar and restaurant,  the bustling hotel offers amenities - gym,  bar, pool table, room service,  games room that simply aren't available at smaller bungalows and guesthouses.

 While it can’t hope to match the charm of a plantation bungalow the Plaza is  convenient for families, independent travellers and groups too large to be accommodated in a bungalow.  The building's position on a hill and its five stories make for commanding views. The clean bathrooms and possiblyone of  the best hot water system in the country are definite  highlights as is the range of board games available.  

 The restaurant is Haputale's largest and   offers a range of Sri Lankan, western and even Chinese food .   A special effort has been made to cater for young children with a small playground, and various games available.   The  knowledgeable staff are passionate about the region - and are full of helpful hints regarding nearby attractions.  Even if you're just passing through it’s worth noting that the tea is particularly excellent. Keep in mind though that rooms vary considerably, so it’s worth looking at a few before selecting one.   

Telephone: 057 2 268544 /057 4 925126    

By Raknish Wijewardene

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